Monday, August 31, 2015

The Drive up North

Yesterday, as we began our long day’s drive from Boise to northern Idaho, I was reminded of the diversity of the state I call home.  Boise has a desert climate; we only get about 12 inches of rain a year.  Sagebrush dots the grass-covered foothills.  We live near the Boise River and a stream runs through our yard.  Our mini-climate is riparian.  We have tules (reeds) and lots of water birds.

Leaving Boise we climb up Highway 55 past golden hills and sagebrush.  We begin to drop down to a river valley and soon cross the horseshoe-like bend in the Payette River, passing through the small town of Horseshoe Bend.  As we continue to climb, pine trees appear and the sagebrush is gone.  We can view the river on our left.  It is a favorite place for rafters and kayakers; this is one of the calmer sections.  Once we pass Banks, the canyon narrows and the churning Payette River begins to look like a washing machine.  These are class 5 rapids so it is rare to see any kayakers here.

We pass the open, quiet waters of Smiths Ferry.  It is always so green here in the summer.  Once we leave this area behind, the road narrows and lies dangerously close to the fast moving river.  This part always makes me nervous.  Before long the landscape opens up and we enter a wide valley.  Golden fields lay on either side of the highway.  On the left we pass a small airport.  We drive by a small cabin that is falling down; we always wonder how long it will still be around.

Soon we reach the town of Cascade.  It was once a lumbertown but the mill closed a number of years ago.  The old rail lines are now used for scenic rides on the Thunder Mountain Railway.  We cross the river and spot children playing in the water near an RV park.  Next we pass the Cascade Reservoir.  The road begins to climb and evergreens line the way.  We pass through two more small towns and then the road levels out.  We enter McCall, a resort town on the shores of Payette Lake.  We stop for lunch at a little burger joint—hamburger and a shake for me.  McCall is always a good place to stretch our legs.  Sometimes we stop at Ice Cream Alley for an ice cream cone.  Other times we stop at one of the small public beaches to use the facilities, look at the lake, and perhaps make lunch.

Upon leaving McCall the highway descends downward through heavily wooded forest.  We reach New Meadows (after passing Meadows), aptly named because it describes the terrain.  Gradually we see more trees and the walls of the mountains close in and we are in a steep canyon and the town of Riggins.  The streets are only a couple blocks deep on the left side while the Salmon River runs close by on the right.  Rafting is big in this town so we see ads for the many commercial outfitters ready to take people on an adventure.

Not too far out of Riggins we begin to go up a very steep incline known as White Bird Hill.  There is an overlook near the top.  It marks the location of the Battle of White Bird Canyon which was the first battle of the Nez Perce War; the Army lost.  White Bird was the Nez Perce chief.

From the summit of White Bird we descend to the Camas Prairie.  The most striking feature here is the fields of winter wheat (no irrigation).  Most of the fields have already been harvested but we did see a combine at work.  We pass through Cottonwood, the location of St. Gertrude’s Monastery, the home of Benedictine nuns.  A short distance later we enter the Nez Perce reservation begin to drop off the Camas Prairie.  We come close to Lewiston, Idaho’s port city (no kidding—on the Snake River) but the highway turns before entering it.  When the wind is blowing the right way you can smell the paper mill there. (Perhaps I should say wrong way since it stinks.)   Next we are making a steep climb up to the Palouse—rolling hills with more wheat fields. 

Leaving the Palouse, we enter the college town of Moscow, home to the University of Idaho.  It is also the commercial and agricultural hub of the Palouse region.  (Locals call it “Mosco”—don’t add the w because residents don’t want to be associated with that other Moscow.)  From Moscow it’s only about 30 miles to Coeur d’Alene. 

Continuing on we pass an operating lumbermill and enter the town Plummer.  Here is the beginning of the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, a wonderful 72-mile paved bike path.  We pass through the Palouse Indian reservation and more wheat fields.  The road runs by rolling hills with a mix of evergreens and deciduous trees.  As we get closer we get glimpses of Lake Coeur d’Alene but we don’t get a really good look at it until we cross the river and pull into town.  It’s a beautiful lake with many inlets.  The tall Coeur d’Alene Resort is a prominent fixture on the edge of the lake.  The town has an interesting history going back to early tribes and fur traders.

We are staying in Coeur d’Alene this time but we have been north to the border.  It is well worth the drive.  Farragut State Park sits next to Lake Pend Oreille.  It was once a naval base for testing submarines during World War II.  Yes, submarines—it’s a very deep lake.  Further north is the little city of Sandpoint, also on this lake.  It has a large artistic community with fun shops and a lovely city beach.  It was the home of the women’s clothing company, Coldwater Creek.  Their store was once on the Sand Creek Bridge—I always insisted that we stop there when passing through Sandpoint.

Heading north you will pass through the small town of Priest River, named for the river that runs through it.  Priest Lake is north from there.  It is a heavily wooded area, much like the terrain directly north in Canada.  This area was the location of silent movies made by Nell Shipman and company in the 1920s.  It’s a beautiful spot with lots of wildlife, including moose.  Federal and state campgrounds provide many great campsites.


I’ve described just a part of the Idaho geography.  I live in an interesting state—it is so much more than potato fields.


Written on 8/7/2015



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